Cruise Review

This is my attempt at a cruise review. Before dealing with the particulars of our experience, I thought it worth reminding you that any review is really nothing more than a series of idiosyncratic opinions strung together. That is to say, these observations are only “true” insofar as they reflect my beliefs and experiences honestly. As a frequent traveler and repeat cruiser perhaps I've acquired some degree of connoisseurship, much as one develops an “eye for art” or “nose for wine” with experience? Maybe so. Nonetheless, take anything I say with the proverbial “grain of salt.”


Embarkation

Embarking in Barcelona was quick and efficient. We arrived at the port by taxi around noon and dropped off our luggage. We proceeded through security, checked in without any wait, and boarded the ship. From the time we arrived, we were eating lunch in the Windjammer Cafe within 30 minutes.

Ship

Overall, Brilliance of the Seas is tastefully appointed and well maintained. I was especially fond of the ambiance created by its decor, which felt a wee-bit more nautical and a little less Las Vegas than other ships we've sailed on previously. It's also very much a Royal Caribbean ship, complete with the saucer-shaped Viking Crown Lounge and towering, multi-story Centrum (see photo). Indeed, you can clearly see the evolution of the line's ships, dating back to the Sovereign of the Seas (which now sails on the Pullmantur line as simply the “MS Sovereign” and was in Barcelona on embarkation day).


This was our first voyage on one of RCI’s Radiance-class vessels. I'd admired them from afar and had always heard good things about them (seem “spacious,” extensive glass provides “lots of vistas,” etc.). I think those comments are generally true (with some minor exceptions). That said, I wasn't struck with the same sense of “awe” that I'd experienced when sailing on Navigator of the Seas (with it’s multi-story interior promenade, ice skating rink, and the like). Not that this is entirely a bad thing. Brilliance is more refined and understated. She's an elegant ship.

We especially liked the Art Nouveau inspiration in the casino (although the casino was a little small with [worse] coin-operated machines – a hassle making it not worth my while). We also enjoyed the Schooner Bar (always a favorite on RCI) and the Colony Club area (which is unique to the Radiance-class ships). The gym (plenty of machines and not crowded) and spa were both nice, as was the solarium pool area (especially useful in the frequently less-than-warm weather on this voyage).


My only complaint with the ship's layout was the Windjammer Cafe. While the food was decent enough, it lacked adequate seating. In fact, RCI made regular announcements to encourage people not to dawdle at tables. Perhaps this is less of an issue on warmer cruises when outside tables or poolside dining are preferred options? Nonetheless, this is the one area of the ship where I would have appreciated more spaciousness. To avoid the crowds and get a table alone, Libby and I were forced to either go at off-peak times (early or late) or eat outside in frequently chilly, windy, and sometimes wet weather.

Cabin

We had cabin #8504. It was an oceanview stateroom on deck #8 near the bow of the ship. We really liked the décor of the cabin (navy blue accents with medium toned wood trim). It was also sumptuously spacious. If a regular oceanview stateroom on Brilliance is approximately 170 sq. ft., this cabin must have been 15-20% larger. The extra room is equivalent to the outside area on a balcony cabin... only it was added floor space inside the cabin. Very nice!


Best of all, we'd only paid for an inside stateroom (and at a very low price at that). That’s right, we were upgraded to the outside (with a “retail value” nearly double what we'd paid per person)! This is the second time in the past two cruises this has happened to us on Royal Caribbean. I'm not sure why, but I'm not complaining.

Our only two quibbles with the cabin: a curtain rather than a door on the shower stall and it lacks Internet access.

Dining

Overall, we enjoyed the food aboard Brilliance of the Seas.

Starting with the buffest, the Windjammer’s food consistently ranged from acceptable to good: usually fresh, well-prepared, and at the right temperature. Breakfast consisted of a typical selection of both American and English breakfast staples. Lunch included a variety of salads (prepared and of your own creation), sandwiches, a number of warm dishes (which were most likely to be at or below par), pizza, and burgers / hot dogs, and cookies/desserts. Dinner in the Windjammer was a bit more upscale and less crowded. On offer were usually a selection of appetizers, antipasti, sushi, main dishes (usually from the dining room menu plus additional items), a “pasta your way” station, carving stations, and desserts.

We tried both specialty restaurants: Chops ($25/pp, which was excellent) and Portofino ($20/pp, which was uneven and thus missed the mark). Since I reviewed them in detail at the time, I'll skip repeating myself here (click on links above for details). Overall, we enjoy specialty restaurant dining and wish RCI would embrace the concept further. I'm happy to pay for a better experience.


Meals in the main dining room were enjoyable. We had a few dishes that were excellent, such as the lamb shank and the garlic prawns. I can't say anything was “bad”... though a number of dishes were mediocre. The portion sizes are modest (though you’re free to order as much as you wish).The dining room staff was very accommodating: from moving us to a table for two (which was confirmed before our cruise and then “unknown” once aboard) to ensuring that Libby regularly had coffee ice cream for dessert. Our waiter, Ozgur from Turkey, was especially friendly, efficient, and eager to please.

Note: if you’re interested in “My Time Dining,” which we observed but didn’t try, read my response to a reader’s question.

Entertainment

Gordon, the Cruise Director, was awesome. Without a doubt, he was the best we've ever seen: personable, humorous, and very talented. Overall, we also thought the nightly entertainment was better than any other cruise. We had a nice variety and nearly every act was good (if not great). Of course, this isn't Broadway or the West End. But, it was more than sufficient for 45 minutes to an hour of light entertainment in the evenings.


Shipboard activities were the usual cruise fare and generally not appealing to us. We basically only attended the port lectures, which were enjoyable if not particularly captivating. We would have gone to the art auctions, but they conflicted with the aforementioned lectures. We did make it to an art seminar (a kind of review of “Modern Masters” sold by Park West) and briefly observed a few cooking demonstrations. Otherwise, we amused ourselves frequently by reading or (in my case) writing for the blog.

Ports

Access to new and interesting ports of call (in the form of what I call “travel tapas”) is the reason we go on extended cruise vacations. In fact, we base our cruise selection decisions almost exclusively on the itinerary. For us, ports make or break the cruise.

I've included a brief synopsis below for each port (with links to individual blog entries):

Barcelona, Spain—a wonderful city and excellent departure port. Do yourself a favor and spend some time here before or after your cruise. Enjoy some tapas and your favorite Spanish beverage (wine, sangria, or beer). See the Modernista architecture. If you like art, visit the museums. People watch on Las Ramblas and then stroll through the Bari Gotic.

Palermo, Sicily—we love Italy (this was our 5th and most brief visit to the country, but our first time in Sicily). We could happily go back again tomorrow. We mostly visited churches. I especially recall the mosaics, which were exquisite. Oh, and get a cannoli, they're fabulous in Sicily!

Athens, Greece—one of the highlights of the trip. Sure, we got stopped by the fake police. So what? We spent a number of happy hours walking in the footsteps of the great philosophers of Western civilization. For us, it doesn't get much better than that.

Rhodes, Greece—our first experience with the islands of Greece. Not the most exciting port of call, but we passed a happy and enjoyable day on this isle (which, I might add, is tauntingly close to Turkey... another country we very much want to visit). Based on this sample, we hope to spend more time exploring Greek islands in the future.

Limassol, Cyprus—this was probably the low point in terms of ports. Our fault. We should have planned better rather than just exploring the port city (which has little in the way of attractions, including the very forgettable Limassol Castle). It did make for a relaxing day to prepare for our next port: Egypt. And, it was a short stop on a Sunday anyway.

Alexandria / Cairo, Egypt—this was the highlight of the trip! What it what I expected? No. Did it exceed my expectations? Yes. Sure, it was nice to see the Pyramids, but I can't say it was a transformative experience. Honestly, it's hard to be contemplative when constantly being hounded by the merchants from Rent-a-Camel and Papyrus-n-Things. More interesting to me was contemporary, modern-day Egypt. I'd like to better understand its people and culture. Egypt is definitely worthy of another visit.

Valletta, Malta—we loved this gem of an island in the Mediterranean! We visited (all too briefly) both Valletta and Mdina. We were captivated by its history, charm, and unique character. (Indeed, this is what we'd hoped Gibraltar would have been more like last summer.) If you have the chance, go to Malta!

Shore Excursions

We opted for two shore excursions provided by Royal Caribbean: “Cairo & The River Nile” in Egypt and “Mdina & Historic Valletta” in Malta. Both tours were well organized and on balance worth the time and money. In general, we’re not big “shore excursion” people, as we prefer independent exploration. That said, I’d recommend taking a tour organized by the ship in Egypt (read details of what to expect here). In Malta, it’s not needed (especially if you have a full day) or if you only wish to explore only Valletta. But, for the $43/pp., it provided an efficient means of sightseeing.

Disembarkation

Disembarkation went smoothly. The day before, we were assigned colored luggage tags and given assembly locations and times. Somewhat inexplicably, Libby and I ended up in one of the groups earliest off of the ship (6:55am). This was a minor inconvenience as we really had no place to rush off to because we were staying on in Barcelona for two more nights.

Cruise Information Now Online!

Sorry that it has been a while since my last update. Now that we're home, we're starting to settle back into the normal rhythm of life. For me, that's sans blogging... which is a hobby I only induldge when traveling (or perhaps when I'm retired in 25 or 30 years [checking 401k performance...]... err, make that 40-50 years).

Here's my first batch of informational updates from the cruise:

Main Dining Room Menus (for nearly all days of the cruise)
Cruise Compass (for all days of the cruise)
Port Explorers (for all ports)

I plan to start posting actual pictures of the ship and ports in the next day or two. I'll also post my "official" cruise review. Once those are posted, this blog (in terms of active updates) will sadly be coming to an end.

Then it will be time to start planning our next adventure (probably our annual journey to London).

In Atlanta...

We are catching an earlier flight home. We got lucky, and I was ableto get us confirmed on the 4:33 instead of 8 whatever. Once again, it is good to be "Delta Boy."

More "Cruise Question" Answers

I had a few additional cruise questions that I wanted to answer.

Any "happy hours" on the ship?

None that I saw, but they did offer the usual "drink of the day" special.

Did RCI host a "welcome back" party for past cruisers?

Yes, there was a "Crown and Anchor" party that we were invited to (on Saturday night between the first and second seating) that we did not attend. I suspect, though I don't know for certain, that a seperate reception was also held for Crown and Anchor members above "Gold" status. We also had a Cruise Critic get together hosted by Gordon, the Cruise Director.

How was the casino?

It was ok. I prefer the one aboard NCL's Jade. I can't really "deal with" slot machines that still operate on coins. It's too much of a hassle for my small stakes gaming. I like to be able to print out a ticket and move on... otherwise, I feel like I just need to play until the money is used up so I don't have to carry around a pocket full of coins. (As you can tell, I'm not a gambling man by nature.) They did have penny (and I believe nickel) slot machines. The first night also had lower table minimums. We played a little video poker on one sea day and that was about it.

Barcelona: Good to the Last Croquete

The day started out with torrential rain and thunderstorms. Fortunately, the rain subsided by 8am. We were out and about by nine, heading back to Montjuic to visit the Joan Miro Foundation. We were familiar with Miro's work, having viewed it in a number of collections around the world. For some reason, I've never come to love it (or even particularly like it). I'd hoped this was be a transcendent experience much like my visit to the Chagall Museum in Nice (or my unexpected discoveries of Ellsworth Kelly in San Francisco, Jeremy Moon in London, and Blinky Palermo in Munch). Yet, while I came away feeling better informed, I was still unmoved. Libby felt likewise. Oh well.

Next, we went to the Boqueria Market for browsing and lunch. Yum! This place is on par with my beloved Borough Market in London. It's positively a cornucopia of fresh meats, seafood, and produce. Gigantic Serrano hams (photo below). Chorizo by the mile. Mountains of ripe fruit. Oceans of fish and crustaceans. If only our kitchen were packed into my suitcase!


After lunch, we visited the church of Santa Maria del Mar and the Modernista masterpiece of the Palau de la Musica Catalana. By late afternoon, we'd finished sightseeing and headed for shopping on the upscale Passeig de Gracia. And, guess what? Libby bought another handbag... a TOUS from the “Cubik” collection this time, a Spanish brand with (we learned) boutiques in the United States. Who knew? Who cares (hopefully Libby won't read this, lest I get in trouble for that last comment)?

Tonight dinner was at Qu Qu. More tapas. All were good, including the Qu Qu house wine (a quaffable rioja at only 7 euro per bottle). We grabbed a sweet treat and a coffee on the way back to our hotel.

Now it's time to finish packing and get ready for bed. We fly home early tomorrow.

Barcelona: Art, Rain, and Tapas

Today, we went up to Montjuic and visited the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya. Here's a view from the outside of the museum:


We'd intended to tour the Joan Miro foundation's museum, but we detoured thinking we'd pop in to briefly check this other museum out first. Well, it turned out to be better than we expected. The Romanesque and Gothic collections (especially the Romanesque) were excellent. What made the Romanesque works particularly interesting was the display: the painted interiors of 11th and 12th century churches were actually removed (I assume to preserve them) and then reconstructed on life-size wooden supports that mimicked, for example, the apses of the churches from which they'd been removed. I don't recall every seeing anything like this, at least not on this scale. It made for a unique and interesting display. The “modern” collection, however, was largely forgettable aside from some interesting Modernista decorative arts.

By the time we left the museum, it was nearly 1pm. So, we opted to return to central Barcelona in search of a quick snack and a stroll through La Ribera and the Bari Gotic. Ideally, I'd hoped to visit the Boqueria Market, which I've heard is a gourmand's paradise. Unfortunately, the weather (rain, again) and religion (most shops closed for Good Friday) conspired against us. So, we mostly wandered about, getting ever more soaked, only to be met with “closed” signs at each destination.

We returned to the hotel by 4pm to dry off. We left again around 5ish for dinner (tapas!). Tonight we ate at Ciudad Condal, another cerveceria / tapas bar.


We enjoyed classic dishes such as patates braves, calamari, “Russian salad” (a form of “tuna salad” really), and croquetes. We also had a really uniquely prepared artichoke dish: hearts, sliced paper thin and deep-fried. For dessert, we picked up something from a local pastry shop near the hotel. And, I enjoyed a wonderful cafe con leche. Oh, how I love coffee in Europe!

Not sure of our plans for tomorrow. It will likely depend on the weather.

Back in Barcelona

After a bit of a slow start (we seemed to be running about 15 minutes behind schedule), disembarkation was a breeze this morning. We would have liked to have left later (as we were scheduled to depart at 6:55 and really had no place to rush off ti), but it worked out as the wonderful Gallery Hotel was ready for us upon arrival. So, we're already checked in, and I'm typing in our room at 8:15 in the morning!

We'll be heading off for a coffee now and get started on what I'm sure will be two busy days of fun in Barcelona!

Day #11: At Sea

Today's our last day of this voyage.

We started the day early, enjoying gourmet coffee drinks at Cafe Latte-tudes. We proceeded to conduct ourselves in a mostly unproductive manner: breakfast, followed by reading, then a nap, followed by lunch. Libby went to the gym. I rested my leg and commenced packing our luggage. Dinner was in the main dining room, where we enjoyed our meal and paid our farewells to team of waiters (who, I might add, were excellent – probably the strongest team overall of any cruise). Tonight we'll finish packing and attend the Farewell Show.

This will also be my last post from the ship. But, I'll have more tomorrow and on Saturday from Barcelona, as well as the cruise reviews, photos, additional information, etc.

Sea Day #4: Q&A -- Answers

Did they have a passenger talent show?

No. They did karaoke... although one night it was offer with a live band accompaniment.

Quality of jewelry offered on bus tour? Better places to purchase?

Up front, let me say that I'm not an expert on jewelry. On land, I mostly shop for Libby's jewelry gifts at the higher-end boutiques. I'm sure that I pay a premium, but I know what I'm getting with, for example, Chopard. That said, I'll offer the following thoughts on the tour bus shopping options. First, I thought the quality is acceptable for the price (silver cartouches run in the 25-40 euro range; gold are more expensive – starting at 150 or so euros, if I recall). Second, most folks seemed to go with silver or perhaps silver with some gold overlay... and at those prices, the risk was minimal and everyone seemed happy. Third, this is really the only game in town. The tours are structured in such a way that it would not be feasible to buy a customized cartouche by any other means. So, you either go with them, go with nothing, or take an independent tour (and maybe arrange for the purchase in advance at a high-end jewelry shop in Cairo, assuming such a place exists). Bottom line: I'm 100% certain that if you really want the “best” then “buying on the bus” isn't the way to go. That said, everyone is flying coach on these tours and at least you know you'll get to the destination.

What was the weather like?

Most days (Barcelona, Palermo, and all four sea days) were fairly cool (upper 50s / low 60s), often cloudy, and occasionally rainy. Athens was pleasant... sunny and in the mid to upper 70s. Rhodes ad Malta had weather similar to Athens. Cyprus was a little cooler (upper 60s) due to overcast skies and rain. Egypt was also remarkably temperate with highs in the upper 70s or low 80s (though it was 90+ the day before with a sandstorm, we were told). I think all of this means that you should probably be prepared for a mix conditions.

Some days were fairly windy too. The forward speed of the ship gives you roughly a 20 knot wind, which is windy but manageable. On at least one day, however, they closed the outer decks due to wind (which reached nearly 50 knots after combining the vectors of the ship with the actual wind speed).

The seas, however, have been very smooth throughout. Thankfully, I might add.

Have I seen any DECT phones aboard the ship?

Nope. I have not.

Sea Day #4: Q&A – Open for Questions

Tomorrow is our final day at sea before returning to Barcelona on Friday. So, please feel free to post any remaining questions that you might have for me. I'll either respond tomorrow or on Friday.

I'll also be writing a full cruise review and posting pictures of the ports (as well as menus, the daily Cruise Compasses, etc.). I hope to get much of this posted before we leave Barcelona, as I transform from a blogger into a pumpkin once I'm back to my day-to-day work responsibilities at home.

Day #10: Valletta, Malta

Today was our final port: Malta. We began our approach into Malta's harbor around 1pm. Libby and I witnessed this from the bow of the ship, an ideal vantage point to see the beautiful city (photo below).


We docked by 2pm and shortly thereafter departed for our tour of Mdina and Valletta. Given that this was a short stop (everyone was to be back on board by 6pm), we opted for the tour based on our experience last year in Gibraltar, which involved a really hectic disembarkation followed by a huge crush of people all trying to do the same thing at the same time. I don't know what the independent experience was on this cruise, though it was probably fine. Nonetheless, I'm sure we wouldn't have visited both Mdina and Valletta had we not gone with the ship's shore excursion, and that would have been a real loss. Malta is wonderful!

In fact, Libby is already talking about our need to return to this city (perhaps in conjunction with an independent, land-based trip to Italy, which we haven't done in a few years).

The island is very picturesque. Both Mdina and Valletta are beautiful cities. We had an opportunity to walk around both cities and visit the co-cathedrals (it seems that the bishop on Malta sort of “splits his time” between them). St. John's Cathedral in Valletta is especially not to be missed. It's simply marvelous. And, it houses two painting by Caravaggio: “The Beheading of St. John” (which Malta seems especially proud of) and “St. Jerome Writing” (which Libby and I both preferred).

Our only complaint about Malta was the brevity of the visit. But, we shall return!

Tonight, we enjoyed dinner in the main dining room (my entrée of Garlic Tiger Shrimp, a dish I'd had before on another RCI cruise, were especially good this evening), and we watched the main stage production show, entitled “Tango Buenos Aires” (which was enjoyable but not great... of course, I'm uncultured git when it comes to dance; so, I'd recommend you ignore my opinions on this one).

Sea Day #3 Q&A: Answers

You asked. I answered.

Any recommendations on the need for local currency?

Yes, you'll want euros for “walking around” money when on shore. I always use the local ATMs of major banks with my checking account's debit card. It provides a decent exchange rate and is hassle free. There are plenty of easily accessible ATMs in Barcelona, Athens (including at the port terminal), and Rhodes (in the new part of time). We grabbed 200 euro for the cruise (not including first days in Barcelona)... and I have 85 of it left after making small purchases, buying food/drinks, and paying admission fees when in port.

Also, don't forget to notify your checking and credit card companies of your travel plans. You don't want to be cut off when away for suspicious activity!

Is there a sushi station aboard the ship?

Yes, the Windjammer seems to have sushi every night. It's not as good as the sushi bar on NCL, but it's pretty good. Last night, they also had a “raw bar” with oysters on the half shell.

Have you attended an art auction?

No, we actually haven't had one yet. It will be held this afternoon. I'm not sure if we'll attend, but it's likely.
Who's on board from Park West working the auction?

Steve is the Art Auctioneer (he was aboard the NCL Jade last summer with us as the Art Director). Elizabeth, who I don't know, is the Art Director.

Is health food available at breakfast and lunch?

I think it depends on what you define as “health” foods. Salads (and related raw veggies) are available at lunch; fruit is available at breakfast. The hot / warm food options are probably less healthy overall at the buffet. Portion control and prudence in one's selections are probably the best strategy. That said, they don't exactly offer “spa cuisine” in the buffet and if healthy means “all natural, organic, whole foods with minimal additives and processing” to you, well, you've probably booked the wrong cruise.
Is the pool deck or solarium crowded on sea days?

It hasn't been especially crowded. The solarium has been more so than the pool deck. For the most part, it's been pretty cool outside on sea days (low- to mid-60s). And, the ship has an older crowd that seem to be less about the “fun and sun” vacation. I'm sure at the weather “improves” (as Floridians we're quite happy with this respite from the heat), more people will take to the deck chairs.

That said, I've noticed when walking by that idiots still seem to want to reserve the best chairs early.

How is the entertainment besides the night show?

In the evenings, the musical groups around the ship all seem pretty good. And, there's something for nearly everyone (from big band to country). I get to listen to them every evening while posting on the blog. ;-)

The daytime activities are pretty much standard cruise fare. We mostly attend the art seminars and port lectures, as well as the occasional art auction. Honestly, we are kind of atypical cruisers. We're not big “sit in the sun” people – we could do that at home in Florida. We couldn't care less about most of the sports / games / activities run the cruise director's staff throughout the day. I know how to fold napkins, don't need to show off my “sexy legs” in a contest, and have never wanted to climb a rock wall. We mostly cruise because we like visiting a variety of new ports on a sort of travel “tapas crawl,” if you will.

Beer Selection: Update

I was lamenting the lack of wheat beers in an earlier post. I have to ammend that response. I was able to locate Reifer Weizenbier (Ankerbrau Nordlingen) in the Colony Club! I'd never had this before. It was ok. (not great), but any port will do in a storm, I suppose.

Day 9: At Sea

Today was all about relaxation following yesterday's exhausting odyssey to Cairo.

We had breakfast early and then sat in the solarium. Libby read a book, I wrote for the blog.

This afternoon we continued lounging about and basically did nothing productive. I sometimes dislike days at sea, thinking them a waste of precious vacation time. But, today was good for recharging the batteries.

Dinner tonight was at Portofino, the ship's other specialty restaurant. You can probably guess by the name that it's Italian-themed. Overall, we thought it was decent... certainly better than the “son of Olive Garden” on NCL's ships. But, Portofino was billed as a fine dining (rather than a casual eatery). In that sense, it missed the mark. We began with a nice selection of breads and exceptionally good spreads (including a wonderful mushroom pate). Both of our salads were also very good. Then things went downhill. Our soups were just plain bad. Libby's Italian bean was too salty; my chilled tomato and red pepper was just utterly unbalanced and downright vile (“worst dish” of the cruise award).Libby's main course, the signature seafood dish (a dangling rod of fruits of the sea), was both too clever (and phallic) by far. This was made worse by the ham-fisted table service that sent Libby's salmon flying (and thus needing to be recooked). I had veal wrapped in prosciutto served on a bed of wild mushroom risotto. The veal was decent but the risotto was excellent. The meal ended well with a selection of miniature desserts (basically smaller portions of their entire dessert menu). All were pretty good. Would I try Portofino again? Probably. But, if I could only select one, I'd go to Chops.

Tomorrow is our final port of call: Malta.

Day 8: Cairo Shore Excursion Information

We weren't sure what to expect of the ship's shore excursion. So, here are a few observations:

You will be on buses that are modern, air-conditioned, and have a clean bathroom (which you're encouraged to use).

You will be provided with drinks (water and soda) and snacks (fruit, crackers, candy bars) on the bus.

You will drive in an armed convoy to and from Alexandria.

You will have one or more “back-up” buses accompanying the convoys.

You will drive 2.5-3 hours each way between Alexandria and Cairo.

You will have an armed guard (in a suit) on the bus with you. He'll accompany you at the stops too.

You will have an informative and English-speaking guide. Don't be afraid to ask questions.

You will have three stops at the Pyramids (overview, up close, and Great Sphinx), a buffet lunch, some other site/activity, and a stop at a Papyrus Institute.

You will be able to order customized jewelry / clothing / souvenirs from the Papyrus Institute(s) while on the bus en route to Cairo.

You will be bothered incessantly by touts and merchants at every site.

You will be expected to tip for even small services provided (such as to the restroom attendants on the lunch cruise or “friendly” police officers who offer to take your picture).

You will be provided with a safe and edible, if not overly enjoyable, lunch.

You will not need Egyptian pounds, dollars and euros are widely accepted.

On balance, we were happy to do the ship's shore excursion. It was a very long day. But, it was well organized and the logistics were easy. Could you go independently to Cairo? I wouldn't advise it. Could you book an independent tour? I'm sure. But, I really don't think it necessary for a first time visitor.

Day 8: Reflections on Egypt

As I mentioned in my brief update yesterday, Egypt will most assuredly be the highlight of this trip. Here's a picture of Libby on the Nile.


What a day! I'm something of at a loss for words (a rare—let me assure you—condition for me). Here's a shot: Egypt was utterly exciting, exhausting, enthralling, and eye-opening.

Mostly, I think it's a land of dichotomies. In Cairo, you find the splendors of antiquity juxtaposed against a city of squalor and poverty. The touts hawking “trinkets and trash” are some of the most annoying I've experienced in the world... indeed, they're so pervasive and pernicious that they actually ruined the experience of experiencing sites such as the Great Pyramid. You'll find camel “handlers” who'll rip you off (5 euros to get on the camel; 50 euros to get off) and “helpful” uniformity tourist and antiquity policeman (carrying automatic weapons) who'll welcome you and offer to “take your picture” only to demand payment for the service, once rendered. (Note: both of these things happened to people on our tour bus... though Libby and I knew of these scams in advance.) Yet, if you look more closely, you'll find that the Egyptian people are some of the friendliest and most helpful in the world. I witnessed innumerable kindnesses paid to accommodate elderly or physically-challenged visitors.

We also had occasion to interact with Egyptian school children on organized field trips. They'd smile and wave. “Hello,” they'd yell. I'd smile and wave and say “hello” in response. They'd walk by and give me high-fives. “What's you name?” “Paul,” I'd say, “what's your name?” Their teacher walked by and welcomed us to their country, “we hope you enjoy your visit.” It really made me appreciate that while we might live half a world apart with different histories, cultures, and religions, we're not really that different at heart. Here are the school kids at the Great Pyramid:


As I've mentioned, most Egyptians live in poverty. Things that Americans take for granted (such as basic sanitation) are not always available. Some families actually make their way in the world by living amongst garbage in eponymous “garbage” cities, sorting it for recycling and reuse. Others just live in half-finished buildings in garbage-filled slums. It really makes you—or at least should make you—grateful for the wealth, security, and comfort that you have (and let's face it... anybody on an 11-night Mediterranean cruise is damn wealthy compared to the majority of the world's population).

Yet, oddly enough, you can see examples of the “McDonaldization” of Egyptian society and exported American-style consumerism too. In our brief visit, we observed a number of McDonald's, Burger King, KFC, Pizza Hut, Starbucks, etc. outlets. There's even a TGI Friday's on the banks of the Nile! More surprisingly, The “Desert Road” between Alexandria and Cairo contained a number of “planned communities,” akin to those found in the outer suburbs (exurbs) of America. I hadn't expected this at all. Golf courses, shopping malls, smartly styled homes. All of it wrapped neatly in a utopian package, a sort of Arabian Nights with manicured landscapes. My favorite: “New Giza.” The Egyptian soul sister of “New Tampa” at home.

Egypt is the most “foreign” place we've ever been. It was utterly unique but also oddly familiar. We're still not sure exactly what to make of it. We'll have to return. Until then, I'm comforted by the thought that this experience underscores the reason we travel: while I was worn out last night, I awoke this morning feeling very alive and a part of the world.

Day 8: Egypt -- Brief Update

Wow! What a day! Exciting, exhausting, and eye-opening. Needless to say this was (and I expect will remain) the highlight of this trip. We just returned to the ship and grabbed a quick bite to eat.

It's now 10pm, nearly 15 hours after we departed this morning.

Needless to say, we're wiped out. I'll post a full update tomorrow when I've had time to contemplate this experience (and can keep focused on what I'm trying to write).

Also: tomorrow is Sea Day #3, so I'll get to all of your unanswered questions. And feel free to post others for me to answer.

Goodnight all!

Contemplating the Visit to Egypt...

Tomorrow is intended to be the highlight of our trip: Africa, Egypt, Cairo, and the Pyramids!

This makes me nervous. And, no, not for the reason(s) you think.

I started actively thinking about this after reading a very smart article in Art in America by Susan Tallman about the role of originality, reality, and locality in our appreciation for, and understanding of, works of art. In that article, the author wrote of a unit (termed the “Bennie”) for measuring the impact of experiencing a work of art first-hand. This got me to thinking: would the Egyptian Pyramids—the last remaining Wonder of the Ancient World—score high or low on my personal Bennie-ometer?

You see, expectations are very dangerous things.

In particular, I've found that my expectations are often smacked down by abject reality.

A common example cited by many people involves viewing Leonardo da Vinci's Mona Lisa at the Louvre. It's a masterpiece. Sure. But in reality, the painting is also rather dark in tone and small in scale. And, it's utterly surrounded by a sea of tourists, many of whom ignore, as if completely devoid of sight or on some sort of “big game” hunt during a cultural safari, innumerable spectacular works en route to this sole painting. Worse yet, the image is so utterly familiar and so frequently reproduced that the “real” work is diminished (at least for many of us). Its iconic stature and frequent reproduction has, ironically, made the actual work—the real thing—rather small and common.

Of course, expectations cut the other way too. For example, a few years back we flew to Prague on a bit of a lark. As children, we grew up at the end of the cold war. We expected nothing... probably less than nothing... of this city and country that once lived behind the iron curtain. I think that, as ridiculous as it sounds, I half expected the country to be painted in an achromatic palette, just shades of gray under dark and brooding skies. Of course, this wasn't so. In reality, Prague is a beautiful city. The Czech people are wonderful. And, it's turned out to be one of our favorite places in Europe.

What will my impression of Egypt be tomorrow? I really don't know. But, I'm certainly hoping for something other than a “Mona Lisa in the desert” moment.

Day #7: Limassol, Cyprus

As I write this entry, we're just leaving the pier in Limassol.

Limassol seems to be a large, sprawling, and (if I'm honest) mostly charmless city. For a number of logistic reasons (such as resting my leg before tomorrow's busy day in Egypt), we planned to not do much here and simply explored the old port area, including Limassol Castle. Well, that worked out – not too much to do in Limassol. Indeed, even the castle was underwhelming. Remember the line in the movie Four Weddings and a Funeral describing the friend's supposedly smallish castle? “One up, one down.” Good punch line. Sadly, it's actually true at the castle here (unless you count the roof).Here's a photo from the top of the castle:


That said, I'm sure Cyprus is lovely and best experienced outside of Limassol (just like the state of New Jersey shouldn't be judged by Newark). Indeed, going outside of Limassol is my recommendation. If/when we return under different circumstances, we'll make a point of seeing the island more completely.

A few helpful hints: due to the short duration of the time in Cyprus, I'd consider a ship-based excursion as some folks nearly missed the ship today and had to pay exorbitant taxi fees in an effort to expedite their return. Also, if you're just going to explore Limassol like we did, use the ship's shuttle buses for $5/pp round trip – they are well organized and hassle free!

We were back aboard Brilliance in just a couple of hours. That worked out well, as the ship was still largely vacant allowing me to take many unobstructed pictures (all of which I will post upon our return). We also enjoyed a nice lunch at the Windjammer (finally some elbow room!) and some fancy coffee-based drinks at Latte-tudes. This afternoon we attended the port lecture on Egypt, which was interesting and primarily covered the reign of Ramses II (who ruled Egypt for about 60 years, lived to nearly 90, and had over 200 children!).

Editorial Note: Answers to Questions

I've had a few questions posted in the past couple of days (art auction info, currency suggestions, etc.). I'll get to all of those on our next sea day (Tuesday), if not sooner.

We're having a wonderful time. I hope you're all enjoying following along with us!

Tip: Getting to the Bus Station in Rhodes

I had a reader ask about how to get to the bus station in Rhodes in order to go to Lindos. Given that we've already established I'm a (sometimes too) helpful guy, I researched the answer today.

The good news is that this is super easy. Basically, you just need to walk along the commercial harbor (where the cruise ship docks) / outer city walls until you pass through a gate and reach the Mandraki harbor (you can see this entire route from the ship).

Once you reach Mandraki, continue along it until you reach the “large” intersection (photo below) at Alexandru Diakou street, there's a park on one corner and the “new market” on the other. Here you should turn left onto Diakou (if you turn right, you'll be going for a swim).


The bus station is one block ahead on the right hand side of the road. By the way, it appears that the round trip ticket to Lindos only cost a few euros. A taxi is another independent option, but the price is much higher (42 euros each way).


When I return, I'll also upload a copy of the port guide to Rhodes that includes a map.

Day #6: Rhodes, Greece

Perfect weather again today!

We spent a leisurely day strolling around the Rhodes Town, including the picturesque (but touristy) old town and the less quaint (but still charming) modern city near Mandraki, the northern less commercial harbor. The ship docks right outside of the old city gates and everything is very walkable – no tours or taxis required, unless you're headed further afield. We began by walking to the entrance of the Mandraki Harbor, where two deer are supposed to be guarding the harbor. Sadly, one of the deer have gone missing? (Recommendation: if you walk out this way, take the time to stop into the modest but lovely Sacred Church of the Annunciation).

We spent some time strolling about the new town. It has a lot of promising looking places to eat (with, I suspect, better quality and more authenticity than the tourist traps in the old town) and some shopping. It also has two Starbuck's Coffee shops (they really have taken over the world), which is sort of sad... but like McDonald's it's a place for Americans to use the restroom for free with impunity. :-)

We also toured the old town. The highlight of which was the Grand Masters Palace (not to be confused with the Grand Wizards in America, which happens to be a double-wide trailer somewhere in Mississippi, I believe... but I digress.).Here's a photo of the palace from the ship:


The palace is nicely restored, though largely unfurnished. As an added benefit, they've installed a number of mosaic floors throughout that date from the first to the fifth centuries. These obviously aren't original, but if you like mosaics (like me), this is not to be missed.

All in all, this was a very enjoyable and leisurely day. It also makes the mid-point of the cruise and this vacation. Yikes! And, just when I'm finally starting to feel like I'm finally “away” from it all.

P.S. We were thinking about a friend of ours today and did a “self-portrait” in his style.

Travel Security Alert!

So, we actually had a group of “evil doers” (Libby's phase for them, seemingly having been turned into George W. Bush momentarily) attempt to accost us today while walking from Syntagma Square to the New Acropolis Museum. They tried the “we're undercover police, (insert reason), show us your passports” scam, which is an oldie but a goodie. Here's how it went down:

I was stopped by this “lost” guy from one of the former Yugoslavia states asking for directions. Having an honest face and pleasing countenance, I frequently have this sort of thing happen: could you help with directions, take our photo, explain how the metro works, etc. And, being an amiable fellow, I usually render assistance. It's my nature. Anyway, so while I'm helping out the “lost” guy, two plain clothes “policemen” approached us from opposite directions. Libby saw them coming and knew that something was up... she became as skittish as a cat tossed into a shower. They noticed her anxiety and one produced a “badge.”

“It's ok, we're police.”

“This man (my lost Yugoslavian) is a criminal.”

“Show us your passports.”

#$%!) me!

The badge looked like it had been purchased at a novelty shop. He might as well have shown us a Blockbuster Video card!

We just looked at them and walked calmly away.

As I never trust anyone on the street, if I stop walking my hand goes into my pocket and onto my wallet. But, I doubt they were going to try to pickpocket us anyway. That would be an inelegant way of accomplishing that objective, as the “distract and bump” is much better. Likewise, I did not suspect that they were going to rob us in a violent manner (as this was broad daylight in a fairly well traveled area) and they could have just done that (or attempted to do so... the three of them came up to about my chest and combined I probably outweighed.

No, I suspect they were going to attempt to either 1) “fine” us for something, or 2) claim that we “committed a crime” and attempt to extract a bribe in exchange for our “release.” This is a pretty common ploy. Had they persisted we would have taken more evasive action or engaged the proper authorities (the Greek police are available on your mobile phone at “100”; the tourist police are available on “171”).

In any case, I don't write this to scare you. Libby was a little shaken up by the experience, which upset me. Otherwise, I would have actually found the whole incident rather comical. But, it's actually not funny because innocent people are taken advantage of each day.
To be clear, I don't blame this on Athens. This sort of thing—or other schemes designed to take advantage of unsuspecting tourists—are always a threat. We've been fortunate over the years, but we've invariably had someone try to fleece us (large or small) on most of our nearly 20 trips to Europe (and in countless others in the States too). Indeed, last year it was taxi driver in Southampton, England with a ridiculous story about trains being unavailable for tourists for umpteen hours so we'd have to pay for a cab ride into London!

The moral of this story is 1) stay alert, 2) be prepared, and 3) be knowledgeable.

Violent crime in Europe is almost non-existent. So, if you're careful, you'll be fine!

Day #5: Athens, Greece

We left the ship by 8:00am this morning. After much discussion last night, we agreed to take a taxi into the center of town. We knew this wasn't going to be the cheapest alternative (the metro is most affordable), but we were reasonably certain that it would be the most direct, thereby saving time and reducing walking distances. After a little haggling (set the price before getting into a cab in Athens), we agreed on a rate of 20 euros to the Acropolis. Of course, the taxi driver still kept trying to talk us into a “tour” with him. But, I insisted we liked walking, which is actually true. In the end, this worked out well.

We were dropped off at the foot of the Acropolis by 8:30 and purchased admission (12 euros / pp) at the ticket booth ahead of most tour groups. We then began the uphill climb. This was actually remarkably easy, though I suspect it could be brutal in the heat of summer. As is often my luck in Europe, many of the structures were covered by scaffolding and obscured by cranes. Nonetheless, we both agreed that the Parthenon (cliché image below) and other structures on the “sacred hill” were impressive and awe-inspiring to see in person.


After climbing down, we headed to the Agora, which is situated nearby (Acropolis tickets cover admission charges – so save them!). Our visit here was very comprehensive. Many of the “buildings” are now only remnants of what had once been. Yet, it was exhilarating to realize that we were treading upon the same ground as luminaries such as Socrates. We also visited the Agora Museum (photos below), housed in the reconstructed Stoa of Attalos.



After leaving the Agora, we strolled through the surrounding neighbors of Monastiraki and Plaka. Here we toured a number of additional archaeological sites, including Hadrian's Library, the Roman Forum, and the Tower of the Winds. We also briefly stopped by the Mitropoli, the Cathedral in Athens. We saw the Parliament Building (as well as some sort of protest) in Syntagma Square. Finally, we walked past Hadrian's Arch and the Temple of Olympian Zeus before (unsuccessfully) visiting the New Acropolis Museum (which, though scheduled to open in 2008, appeared to still be under construction?!?).

By this time, we were pretty worn out (having walked nonstop for nearly 6 hours). So, we grabbed a taxi for our return to the ship. After a little negotiation, we agreed to a price to Piraeus (20 euros). Throughout the return ride, we listened to the very friendly, loquacious and possibly deranged taxi driver extol us with “correct” Greek history in broken English, complete with guidebook pictures (which he insisted on turning around to show us while driving through heavy traffic). I'm not sure that we followed it all... but key “facts” included that the Parthenon was bombed out by the Italians in 1686, who were fighting the Persians encamped on the hill. Moreover, while the Greeks are still somewhat pissed about the Parthenon getting knocked about, had it not been for the Italians (and the sacrifice of the Greeks) all of Europe would now be filled with Muslim countries (I'm guessing he thought this would be a bad thing, though he didn't really say). In any case, according to our driver, this is no longer taught in schools and Greek children are ignorant of their “true history” (which seems to consist of many offenses committed against the Greek people by Persians, Turks, Italians, and an assortment of others). As further evidence, he claimed that some don't even know the proper origin of the Olympic flame (neither Mount Olympus nor the Olympic Stadium but the city of Olympia). Neither Libby nor I knew what to make of any of this... so, we just nodded politely, mumbled a lot of “uh huhs,” and grinned like idiots for the seven mile journey back to the ship.

By the way, the weather was beautiful today: sunny and temperate.

Day #4: At Sea

Today, we started off with breakfast in out cabin. Overall, Royal Caribbean does a nice job in this area. Unlike NCL, they offer scrambled eggs, breakfast potatoes, bacon, and/or sausage in addition to the usual selection of continental offering (fruit, pastries, and cereal). It was delivered on time and in good condition aside from the potatoes which were a little on the cool side. The coffee was bad too, which seems to generally be the case if you're not paying for it at the Seattle's Best coffee bar or drinking it for free in a specialty restaurant. I'm not sure what's up with that...

At 11am, we attended the Cruise Critic “Meet & Mingle” hosted by the Cruise Director, Gordon. The Master of the Brilliance, Captain Lindegren, also visited with the group. Royal Carribean provided a nice selection of drinks and snacks and also held a raffle (I won a “Meet & Mingle Wave Mouse – see photo). Everyone seemed to enjoy themselves.


This afternoon we attended a port lecture on the history of Rhodes and the Knights of St. John. It was a bit more interesting than the Sicilian history talk and has helped to knit some details together in my mind with respect to the intersection of Rhodes and Malta. But, really, I'm a geek at heart and would pretty happily listen to a lecture on almost any topic... including the making of cheese... which, I might add, is actually rather fascinating.

Tonight we had dinner in the main dining room. I think our waiters thought we might not be coming back and seemed concerned that we were unhappy. We tried to assure them that it was “us, not you,” but I'm not sure they bought it, especially when we told the headwaiter how much we liked the steakhouse upstairs last evening (response: “their food is very good, but our food is good too.”).

Tonight, we're trying to decide whether or not to go to the only “authorized” Elton John tribute show in the world (and it happens to be here on our ship). Tempting. Or, not.

No matter. Athens is tomorrow!

Sea Day Q&A #2: Answers

What's the deal with Internet access? I thought the cabins had WiFi? Where's it available and what does it cost?

Yes, the ship does offer WiFi (wireless) access to the Internet. However, it is not available in the cabins (though I suspect some might have access to the if located near a public access point). So, if you plan to use it outside of your cabin. The standard rate is $0.55 per minute. But, packages are available. I purchased the $55 one with 150 minutes of access time (~$0.37 per minute). I save time by having all of my submissions ready before going online. So, I'm only using minutes to upload and quickly check for comments and e-mail.

The locations for access include the Starquest Disco (Deck 13), Solarium (Deck 11, Windjammer Cafe (Deck 11), Library (Deck 9), Schooner Bar (Deck 6), and Colony Club (Deck 6). It seems, however, that most of the seating areas around the upper Centrum (near the library) have access. So, I've taken to using the Centrum's lounge area on Deck 8. And, I can still hear the music played by the band in the Centrum lobby.

What beers are on offer? Anything unusal?

The selections are all pretty standard stuff. Nothing boutique or unusual in my book. The “imports” are typical of a not-so-impressive grocery store's selection. You can find something to drink. But, there is nothing on offer that's not widely available. The wine list is also, in my opinion, equally... well... lame. It's one of the things that I miss about NCL. They offer a more interesting list of beers, wines, and spirits. Libby—who's less interested generally and usually drinks only fruity, frozen drinks available in a rainbow of outlandish color—is perfectly happy.

Is “My Time Dining” Available?

Yes, it is available. And, as fans of NCL's Freestyle, it seemed that MTD would be ideal for us. However, I'm wasn't so sure. And, my concerns were well founded. We've seen patrons complain because they ended up being seated with others. As such, it appears that MTD works more like “open seating” than NCL's Freestyle. Yes, you can eat when you wish. And, you may eat with whomever you wish. That said, others (think: complete strangers) might be added to your dining party. This was our initial concern, especially as you pay for the gratuities in advance (which would stink if you hated it and ended up in the Windjammer every night). Having anticipated it, we got a table for two at the main seating. Problem avoided. Based on observation, my guess is that the larger your party the more likely you'll have a dedicated table, as four and six tops seem prevalent. But, it's not ideal for couples on this cruise ship, unless you like eating with others.

What are your plans for Rhodes? Any thought of a bus trip to Lindos?

At present, we plan to mostly explore the town of Rhodes. We thought about going to Lindos, but we opted not to do so because the climb up to the acropolis would probably be-less-than ideal with my leg. (I'm good on level ground, but still slow on the stairs.) That said, if I can get directions to the bus station I will post them here for you.

Any plans to visit a winery in Cyprus?

No, we haven't made up our mind about Cyprus yet. Limassol itself seems to have little to offer, but I'm not sure what we'll opt to do. Will keep you posted.

Day #3: Dinner and a Show (Updated)

When I last left you, I mentioned that we enjoyed an excellent dinner at Chops and were entertained at the headliner show, featuring Brenda Cochrane. But, it was late here, and I was tired. So, here's the updated complete run down:

Chops, a steakhouse at sea, is one of the two specialty restaurants aboard Brilliance. We arrived for our 7:00pm reservation and were promptly seated at a table by the window. Libby and I both stated with a Shrimp Cocktail. Libby then enjoyed a Caesar salad. I opted for onion soup and a beefsteak tomato and onion salad with blue cheese crumbles and dressing. All starters were good, though not particularly memorable. For our mains, I selected a 10oz filet mignon. Libby had a braised pork shank. And, we shared number of sides: potatoes, corn, and wild mushrooms. My steak was melt-in-your-mouth good (of high-end steakhouse quality). But, as good as my dish was, Libby's pork shank was better. It was succulent, tender, and flavorful: an outstanding dish! For dessert, Libby had a luscious “chocolate mud pie” (a high-end version of the Mississippi classic), and I enjoyed a coffee-infused brulee cheesecake that was wonderful, though not really a rival for my “best cheesecake ever” award (still held by Marchand's Grill in St. Petersburg – after 14 years of looking for its equal!).

We finished dinner around 8:45. Just in time for the 9:00 stage show. Tonight's headliner was Scottish singer Brenda “The Voice” Cochrane, who has performed in the West End in shows such as Chicago. She sang a number of standards and covers of 1950s pop hits. Her voice was very pleasing, and her stage presence was even more so. Had she not been successfully as a singer, she probably could have done well as a stand-up comedian.

All in all, this was an enjoyable evening!

Sea Day Q&A – Round #2 (Post Your Questions)

Tomorrow's a sea day again. So, it's time for more questions!

You ask. I'll answer. Just tell me what you want to know.

I'll also get to the “late arrival” questions that I didn't answer on Sea Day #1. So, if you haven't seen your question answered yet, it's will be posted tomorrow.

Day #3 – Palermo, Sicily

We awoke to overcast skies and a cool morning. The ship docked on time at 7am, and we were soon cleared to disembark afterwards. Having investigated our options, we opted for a walking tour with Paulo's Tours Limited. :-)

Palermo is a walkable city. And, we enjoy exploring by foot. That way, you're traveling close to the ground. Unfortunately, it started to rain... and the wet stone sidewalks are as slippery as ice. Fortunately, we managed to remain vertical throughout our journey.

Outside of the port, we headed straight up the Via Emerico Ameri and then made a left turn onto Via Roma. This took us to our first stop, the church of San Domenico. In all, we visited five churches / chapels today: the previously mentioned San Domenico (free, home to many tombs of Palermo's good and great), the modest San Cataldo (1.50 euro, mid-12th century w/ red Arabic domes), La Martorana (Norman church with wonderful mosaics and 16th century Baroque facade), Cappella Palatina (7.00 euro, amazing mosaics combining Arab and European styles), and the Cathedral of Palermo (interior free / treasury & crypt fee; exterior most impressive, interior rather forgettable). Here's a photo breathtaking mosaics at Cappella Palatina:


In addition to visiting churches, we walked to the intersection of the Quattro Canti, a group of four nearly identical buildings (one on each corner) that divide Palermo into quadrants. Just around the corner from the Quattro Canti was the Piazza Pretoria, more popularly known as Piazza Vergogna (the “Square of Shame”). Why the name? Well, many of the statues are anatomically correct and fully on display, if you get my drift.

We also paid a visit to the Ballero market located in La Kalsa (a residential area comprised of crumbling buildings and narrow, winding streets). The Ballero has a bizarre-like atmosphere with merchants hawking fresh and seasonal produce, seafood, and meat to local residents. If you're a foodie, you'll love this place and salivate over the possibilities (“imagine what I could do with that sheep's head or whole octopus!”). But, if you're a devout vegetarian or even a squeamish omnivore, you might want to skip this market. Needless to say, I loved it! Libby: not so much. But, it made me hungry.

So, on our way back to the ship, we stopped off for some cannoli (below) at the Cafe Latino on Corso Vittorio Emanuele.


Yummy!

P.S. Mom, my leg is doing fine. No need to worry. :-)